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Mk4 o2j shift box11/19/2023 The corner that restricts cylinders 5 and 6 is toward the left in the first picture.` Again, this is not something that should be a preliminary modification as there are parts further down the line that need addressing first. The throttle body inlet should be modified. There is much work to be done in smoothing the dividers and transitions into the different runners. The important thing to remember here is that all 2.9 clones are not created equal. Many choose to cut the middle channel from a stock 2.8 manifold in an effort to clone the euro 2.9. These had a different upper intake manifold in which the entire space under the manifold is used as a plenum, allowing for more airflow, and slightly more power band. The 2.9 Manifold- In Europe, some vr6’s were 2.9l instead of the usual 2.8l. It doesn't really need a whole lot of opening/reshaping, but it can be smoothed, and mated appropriately with the upper intake and the head. Ported lower intake This largely contributes to having a complete, matched intake and head. The plug wire holes are directly in the airflow, the dividers between runners are thick, and rigid in construction, and there are multiple internal bolt holes directly in the airflow. The plenum, or the open area before the runners is not a major problem in stock form, but the transitions into the runners are very restrictive. It transitions from the circular throttle body to the flat plenum area with a steep ramp, and multiple internal parts sticking out directly into airflow. The throttle body inlet is about as restrictive as restrictive gets. The stock intake manifold has an upper and lower portion. This is in my opinion, one of the most problematic parts of the VR6 engine. A gutted, or ‘deramped’ throttle body oftentimes causes idling issues on stock engine management. Porting should be kept to a minimum, especially on obd2. I have read that the wires can simply be swapped around for the obd2 tps/tbody to be used on an obd1 car. They cannot be simply swapped as the bolts are different sizes, and the TPS(throttle position sensor) is wired differently. The obd2 throttle body(96-99) is slightly larger than the obd1 throttle body. The oem throttle body is not overly problematic. I would not recommend doing this as a preliminary modification, and it's a stretch to be worth it in any situation. These sell for entirely too much in the classifieds, but they do eliminate the banjo section. The only aftermarket replacement is the ABD big bore intake. Some choose to run a ’catch can’, which allows for crankcase ventilation, and catches excess oil from being cycled into the intake. For this reason, it is important to routinely remove the elbow to clean it and the throttle body. This valve seeps a large amount of oil, and makes the vr6 motor a very dirty running motor. A PCV valve’s function is to vent positive crankcase pressure back into the intake, while restricting oil from passing through. I have made 204whp with a stock upper intake elbow. This is not an overly problematic component. I lost a significant amount of power on a dyno going to a filter on the MAF. This sensor requires a flow of air devoid of turbulence, which is taken care of with a ‘turn2‘ style cai. These intakes will make more power than a cut airbox, but I do not feel that they are a cost effective way to gain power until further modifications make the airbox increasingly inefficient.īecause of the nature of the stock Bosch Mass airflow sensor(MAF), simply putting a filter or a ‘short ram’ intake onto the end of the MAF is not effective. Many have discomfort with the filter being so close to the ground for fear of sucking up water and hydrolocking. There are minimal gains to be had by cutting the lower portion of the box and grinding the webbing from the upper portion.Ĭold air intakes need to be the type that goes down into the fender/bumper to be advantageous. However, it has been tested that a fresh paper filter actually flows better than a K&N. This is nice as it can be washed and reused. It is popular to replace the stock paper filter with a K&N. Through the engine, this will more or less follow the path of air.Ī Vr6 car is equipped with a stock airbox from the factory. So, the the best way I can think to do it is by getting info out there. There’s so much potential in many of these motors to go fast, cheaply. I've got a goal to grow the VW performance aftermarket. I’m always learning, and I’m willing to bet there’s more than a few assumptions in here that are inaccurate, so shoot me a message. I’m trying to make my explanations as simple as possible, so if anything is confusing, shoot me a message, and I’ll try to revise the thread as best as possible. The purpose of this thread is to give my take on the best way to put together a simple, reliable, relatively powerful Naturally Aspirated Vr6 car.
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